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2012/10

TREKKING IN ANNAPURNA

行程計劃

TIMETABLE  BEST IN MAR/APR/OCT/NOV    

▲行程2▲ 

當初一直很擔心高山症,下坡多造成膝蓋關節的負荷, 挑夫嚮導的素質費用, 而有此行程規劃, 礙於出國天數有限, 如果連續兩天飛機不飛, 就要放棄行程1,馬上走行程2了。

搭泰航似乎是較適合第一天到達KTM辦trekking  permit


▲DAY1 ▏TPE-BKK


▲DAY2 ▏BKK-KTM 別星期六到達,ACAP休息 

accomodation,ACAP trekking  permit,currency exchange, Greenline tours, photographing Swayambhunath

 

▲DAY3  KTM(1290M)  Pokhara(850M) 07:00/14:00 

Prepare trekking tour,guide,porter,domestic flight booking

Phewa lake Sarankot photography → Machhapuchhre (fish-tail 魚尾峰-基地營是ABC的行程之一,nepal已不准登頂)       


▲DAY4  Pokhara--2hr by bus-→NayaPul-→Lumle(1610M)--40min-→Chandrakot(1580M)--1hr-→Birethanti(1025M)

Birethanti 是Bhurungdi Khola 及 Modi Khola兩大河流匯集處, 可登記簽名ACAP  office 及取得 trek permit , 也有郵局及money exchange。旅店有 Laxmi lodge(頂級Rs$600/800),the Sanctuary lodge,New Gurkha lodge(衛生經濟),Hotel Sunrise,Riverside lodge(河旁),German餐廳賣好吃的肉桂蛋捲(Rs$25),蘋果糕點(Rs$40)

Birethanti-4hr-→Ghandruk(1939M)

Ghandruk為ACAP總部所在地,有7000多人口,  旅店有Trekkers inn, Milan, Sakura, Sangrila, Himalaya lodge (頂級Rs$500), Eco-camping place.有郵局, 電話, 2博物館(Rs$30), Local Youth Eco-trkking center 幫人安排僱請嚮導挑夫.    ACAP總部值得一遊, 雖然已很Thamel化了, 有影片展示(0930.1200.1500)。                  

另一行程是先走poon Hill再走ABC,不過這種走法不適合再走Jomsom,因為有重複很多路線

當天下午 Birethanti--2.5hr-→Hille(1475M)/Tikhedunga(1515M)                                        

Hille距離Tikhedunga僅15分鐘路程,各有六家旅店, 之間有兩座吊橋 . Tirke dunga River lodge 有游泳池

隔天Hille(1475M)/Tikhedunga--2.5hr-→Ulleri(1960M)--3hr-→Ghorepani(2750M)

Tikhedunga和Ulleri之間有3280個石階路較辛苦,每走500可休息一下,2000個石階後可達Annapurna view guest house.此行程雖辛苦,但可縱覽Annapurna South, Hiunchuti 及 Bhurungdi Valley接著和行程1的▲DAY11同


▲DAY5 Ghandruk(1939M)-→Khumrong Danda(2250M)-→Kimrong Khola(1780M)-→Daulu/Taulung(2180M)-→Chomrong(2170M)

來回都要4小時,Chomrong 是走 ABC , MBC 的起點, 景觀奇好, 不可帶火上山 

 

▲DAY6  Chomrong(2170M)--2hr-→Sinuwa(2340M)--2hr-→Bamboo(2335M)--1hr-→Dovan(2505M)--1.5hr-→Himalaya (2920m)

 Chomrong 旅店有 Summit View lodge(pizza), Captain's Lodge。

至Sinuwa為無趣的陡上要早點出發..Sinuwa旅店有Bhanuwa, Sherpa lodge,也是景觀不錯的停止點,可俯瞰 Modi Khola

Sinuwa和Bamboo之間的Khuldhigar(2540M)為最後的ACAP checkpoint

Bamboo為陡下,Bamboo以上旅館,多有煤油爐加熱系統,幫你保暖及烘乾衣物鞋子(需收費),但要注意通風,防止一氧化碳中毒。

 

然後緩坡至Dovan, 旅店有 Tiptop lodge. Dovan半小時路程為Shrine,傳統上要獻花,彩帶在此. 蛋肉女人不可進入,會觸怒山神。                  


▲DAY7   Himalaya (2920m)--1.5hr-→Deurali(3230M)--1hr15mn-→Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700M)--2hr-→Annapurna Base Camp (4130M)                        

Himalaya 40分鐘路程為巨石形成的 Hindu Cave(3170M)從前是露營區,接著為 108 falls (注意雪崩處),再30分鐘就到Deurali了。    

Deurali旅店擠在一堆,Dream lodge, Sangrila有租售禦寒裝備. 往MBC的Magar因雪崩被關閉

往MBC路途注意別走錯到 Annapurna III

MBC有氣象站. 旅店有Machhapuchhre Cozy GH , Gurung Cooperative..., 旅店後方為亂石堆,3小時可達 Annapurna III Base Camp。

MBC 至 ABC 並不陡, ABC有4間 lodge及停機坪 , 事實上全名是 Annapurna South (南峰)  Base Camp. 可環顧 Annapurna I, Hiunchuti南峰 , Annapurna South 南峰 , Machhapuchhre 及 Annapurna III . 也可由此出發走Annapurna I及Tharpu Chuli (TenPeak 5663M)Base Camp。


▲DAY8  ABC--1hr-→MBC---1hr-→Deurali--1hr-→Himalaya--1hr15mn-→Dovan--1hr-→Bamboo(2335M)  


▲DAY9 Bamboo--2hr-→Sinuwa--1.5hr-→Chomrong--3.5hr-→Chiule


▲DAY10 Chiule--1hr-→Tadapani(2595M)--1hr-→Banthanti(2520M)--2hr-→Deurali(2987M)/Ghorepani(2750M)

Ghorepani旅店-Tibetan Mustang,但許多登山客寧可多花15分鐘去200M遠景觀較佳的Deurali(2987M),住宿費-單雙人房Rs$60/100(用餐)或Rs$200/300(不用餐),旅店有Super View , Snowland , Moonlight (Royal Pun Hill Special chicken Rs$260)

Ghorepani有ACAP Office , 在police checkpoint登記. 三四月開 rhododendrons杜鵑花


▲DAY11  0500及早出發(天未亮記得帶頭燈,路滑)至Poon hill(3210M)攝影日出,仰望世界第六高Dhaulagiri及世界第七高Manaslu.回TH用早餐

 Deurali/Ghorepani--1hr-→Phalate(2270m)/Chitre(2390M)--1hr-→Sikha(1935M)--1hr-→Ghara(1700M)--1.5hr-→Tatopani (1190M)


▲DAY12 Tatopani---2hr-→Dana(1400M)--1.5hr-→Rupse Chhahara(1600M)--2.5hr-→Ghasa(2010M)

Tatopani旅店 Dhaulagiri Lodge(伙食較好)Hotel Himalaya較高級. 有money exchange,電話. hot spring在Dhaulagiri Lodge下方河邊,收費Rs$20,可和旅店借個盆子沖洗用。

Dana旅店 Rupse lodge,Waterfall lodge(巧克力蛋糕絕美)  

Ghasa旅店 Eagle Nest ,  Kali Gandaki GH / Solo Restraunt                


▲DAY13 

Ghasa(2010M)--2hr25mn-→Lete(2480M)/Kalopani (2530M)--2hr-→Larjung(2550M)--1hr-→Tukuche(2590M)--2hr-→Marpha(2670M)

住宿旅店 LeteGH, KalopaniGH 一天才Rs$300。

Kalopani 及 Larjung 有世界最深的峽谷地形, 縱深 5500M. 東徑較短,西徑有紀念碑--1969,5美2尼人攀登Dhaulagiri死於雪崩。

Larjung也是個宗教聖地,Tulachan及Sherchan clans神的面具放在Lha Thau temple廟中, 每12年就有Lha Phewa慶典,最近時間在2005年底.旅館不多,Larjung Lodge較好,但可停留做隔日走Dhaulagiri ice fall,去6hr回3hr,最好早點出發。

Tukuche旅店有Sunil,Yak Hotel.有郵局,電話. 可造訪的佛寺有 Gompa Kupa(1984), Gompa Samba, Mahakali Gompa, Rani Gompa。

Tukuche的建築很有特色,當地居民 the Thakalis 曾經在尼泊爾非常富有,好客會做生意.值得在此多留一天,可造訪Yak Kharka , Shyokong Lake , Buddha Lake.向西走為 Dhampus pass 又是另一個辛苦行程。

Marpha是這行程最乾淨的村子,大街由石板舖成,有最優良的旅社及美食.村子中央有喇嘛廟Solmi/Tashi Lha K'an Gompa,峭壁上有3幅佛像,廟外有百年祈福轉輪,據說是達賴喇嘛自西藏帶來的禮物.美食有蘋果派,raski米酒(在Baba lodge對面Bar),Sukuti燻肉                   


▲DAY14 

Marpha(2670M)--1hr45mn-→Jomsom(2710M)--2hr45mn-→Kagbeni(2800M)--3hr-→Jharkot(3550M)

Marpha  有兩條路線可達Jomsom, 一條經Syang,一條經Thini,可見sacred lake及Hutsapternga. 由Thini可走Mesokanto(5099M) Tilicho Lake高山湖泊,又是另一行程。

Kali Gandaki Valley 河谷,西側為Dhaulagari(8167M)東側為Annapurna I (8091M)                 

自從1970年Jomsom成為Mustang區域的首都,南方有Mustang Eco Museum介紹Mustang風俗民情,值得一看. police spot旁 ACAP information office 一定要登記簽名 . trekkers inn旁有money exchange . district office 也可延簽trekking permit。

Kagbeni--一個小沙漠綠洲,往Lo Manthang入口.大紅寶殿Thupten Samphel Ling(entry feeRs$100)值得一遊,可view整個城鎮及Mustang          

風沙非常大,大多數人喜歡住在Jharkot,因為有太陽能熱水浴,吃的也較好,以Himali Hotel最佳. 如果太累走不到也可停留在前一站 Khingar (3200M) 可省下1hr。


▲DAY15  

Jharkot(3550M)--30mn-→Ranipauwa(3700M)--10mn-→Muktinath(3800M)-→Jharkot

想走Thorung La可宿Ranipauwa 的旅館--Mona Lisa>Sunrise>Shree Muktinath , 也有 ACAP office , 因為穿越Thorung La危險,最好在police checkpoint登記.

Muktinath -- 是印度教及佛教徒的聖地. nepal印度教廟宇除了 Pashupatinath濕婆神廟,火葬場外,次之的即在此,有Jwala Mai temple,Vishnu temple,進入要盛裝脫鞋奉獻. 佛教廟宇有Marme Lhakhang. 此處無旅館.是Jomsom trek的終點.

view  Thorung La(5416M) 需多花一至兩天時間. 由Mukitinath到Thorung La須 8hr (4am就須出發), 如果時間不許可,4hr到ridge(4400M)攝影縱覽整個Kali Gandaki valley,再回宿Jharkot. 或者可住Chabarbu(4070M)-旺季才開,距Mukitinath 1hr30min . 此段是最容易有高山症狀的,預防乾咳,在KTM藥局先備妥codeine.

Thorung La是Annapurna Circuit的最高點,也是最困難處. 企圖通過Thorung La 有幾個原則-- 充分禦寒裝備,結伴同行(最少5人),高山症不可,天氣不佳不可.

Jharko--5.5hr-→Jomsom


▲DAY16  Jomsom-→Pokhara-→KTM  by  airplane 20min   30min   

 如果在Jomsom等不到飛機,走回Beni再搭車至Pokhara需2-3天

KTM -- book , map for everest , biking & photographing   Bodnath , Durba square


▲DAY17  KTM

biking & photographing  Patan , Thimi , Bhaktapur  , Nagarkot 


▲DAY18  KTM --BKK -- am shopping

▲DAY19  BKK---TPE

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